mt aspiring national park

Stoked to have climbed this iconic mountain! It was a strong introduction to the mountain for me, having never climbed it before, but when Joe offers to lead all the ice climbing… Why not? One of my more memorable trips in the NZ alps. It really is a classic climb.

Difficulty: Grade 3+
Equipment: 2x semi technical tools, screws (depends on your tolerance for running it out! we brought 8), 1 x picket each. The amount of rock gear needed depends on the time of year – we didnt need any but later in the season a small set of nuts and set of cams would be needed. Rap tat. We climbed on 2x half ropes as a team of 3 but as a 2 a single 60 would be fine.
Approach time: with only a short weather window (excuses, excuses) we flew into Bevan Col and set up camp at the base of the SW ridge, at around 2100m – see attached gpx file.
Climb time: 6.5h to summit, 11h descent to French Ridge hut
Season: Summited on 1 Dec and the ice was still fat. Earlier in the year expect ice, once it gets much later though the crux turns into a rock step
Party: Joe, Maria, Maia 30/11/21 – 2/12/21

Approach

An easy drive from Wanaka up the Mt Aspiring road, which is gravel past the TC turn off. Has a couple of fords but unless there’s been a ton of recent rain they are no problem crossing in most veichles (Juicy vans regularly make it to the end). If you’re flying in, Aspiring helicopters is just past the TC turn off. They have a slightly unusual pricing structure – as of 2021 its $1170 for 2 people (585 each) or $1560 for 3 (so 520 each), so getting more people to share the flight doesn’t actually make it much cheaper. After checking in with them you drive down to Raspberry Creek Car park and the Heli lands in the field just next to it so you don’t get stuck without your car on the walk out. The only landing spot possible is Bevan Col. We were limited for time due to driving up after a night shift so went for fly in hike out, but the hike in really isn’t too bad, just time consuming. Generally takes around 3 hours ish to get to the French ridge turn off and 1.5-2 hours up to French ridge hut (path is steeeeep) with very well marked track the whole way. You can shave the first 6km or so off that if you have a decent 4WD and ask permission of the land owners – they often will let you drive as far as Cascade hut (call to ask permission! 03 443 7155).

The two most common approaches are to either stay at French Ridge Hut, or to bivvy at the base of the route on the Bonar. If you’re flying in, I think its a no brainer to bivvy but if you hike in, it may make more sense to get a good nights sleep at French ridge and go from there. Allow 2-3 hours from French Ridge hut to the start of the route. It doesn’t really make much sense to go from Colin Todd Hut, its 1-2 hours in the wrong direction.

It was around 3.30pm when we waved goodbye to the heli at Bevan col. We cruised across the Bonar to the base of the SW ridge. Navigation is easy but take care for crevasses in early season. The Bonar can become totally disorientating in bad weather so if there’s any chance of dodgy weather its worth putting in a few GPS points to get you from the base of the SW back to the Quaterdeck on the descent. The other option from the Bonar to French Ridge is via the breakaway – while we were there the ice cliffs threatening this route were extremely active and this route would have been very dangerous. If the shrund at the top of the quarterdeck is cut off then your only option is to go via Bevan Col.

We found a nice sheltered spot to set up camp at 2220m just under the foot of the SW ridge. It was reasonably flat – once we used our shovels to make it so – and there was even running water off the rocks (this might not be the case earlier in the year). It took us around 4h to get here from Bevan Col. Sacrificed the sunset views for an early night – bed by 9pm.

Climb

Woke up at 2am, packed up the camp and hid everything to keep away from cheeky keas! We were away by 3.30am. Our starting elevation was 2220m. The snow was in good condition for the climb – a solid overnight freeze made for an efficient climb up the 45 deg slopes. It looks quite intimidating from afar but once you’re on the ridge its actually pretty straightforward. Some groups would solo this part especially if the snow is soft and you’re making footprints. With the freeze a slip would have meant a long slide down to the Bonnar so we used running belay with microtraxions on pickets allowing 200m pitches on our 70m ropes. After 2 pitches and 2 hours we were at the base of the crux couloir at around 2800m.

From the colouir was the crux – we made 2 pitches. The hardest climbing is as the start, with 20-30m or so of WI3, with short/less than body length near vertical bulges on a generally 80 degree ish slope. Pretty similar in difficulty to Altered States at the Remarkables. After this the angle eases off to low angle ice slopes, and after another 10m we found 2 fresh shiny pitons that had just been put in the day before in the rockband on the left which made an excellent belay. For us the ice was good enough for screw anchors, otherwise you would need a selection of small to very small rock gear. The second pitch gets you to the summit snow cap, and was more low angle ice sticking just to the right of the rockband which takes small gear.

First section of the crux. 30m or so of WI3. Short less than body height vertical bulges but mostly 80 degrees-ish. Pretty similar to Altered States at the Remarkables.

This crux section is highly variable depending on the season – we got the ice in fat condition and had good screws the whole way.

The second pitch of the crux. Low angled ice

When I skied the line with Sam a few years ago we were there in September and the ice was good but was steeper and harder with less snow built up. Later in the year there is bare rock and some mixed climbing is needed (never done it so can’t comment!). Depends what your preference is but personally I love ice so wouldrecommend getting there early in the year! Try and get some recent beta to work out what to expect before heading up.

From the top of the crux it was an easy walk up to the summit where we were rewarded with an incredible panorama of the southern alps.

Descent from the summit to the top of the ramp. Mellow snow slopes

We went down the NW ridge via the ramp. It was cold enough that the snow wasn’t too soft so this was the quickest way down, as it also allows you to cut east at the base of the ramp back down towards the campsite and the Quaterdeck. The other option is to continue along the NW ridge down to the Shipowner ridge, where you can rap down to the kangaroo patch (near the start of the ramp) or continue on to French Ridge hut.

If you take the ramp as your descent route take care – it has been the site of several fatal accidents. It’s prone to wet loose slides and rockfall late in the day, and is exposed almost the whole way. The group on the route the day before us started descending the route but started getting bombarded by rockfall part way down and took shelter in a cave until it got dark and froze up. It was cooler and firmer for us but even so we had a couple of blocks shoot past us as well, and given we were in cloud at this point and couldn’t see them coming this was especially stressful. If its soft at the top of the ramp by the time you start your descent its only going to get worse and is probably best avoided….sticking to the NW ridge is probably overall safer than the ramp and we would probably go that way if doing the route again.

Route from the quarterdeck down to French Ridge hut (another few 100m past end of the line). The shrund at the top was very filled in but the one half way was rapidly opening, we descended the next day and it was a solid metre jump across. Those ice cliffs to the left of quarterdeck were pretty active as well so watch out

The walk along the Bonar glacier to Quaterdeck felt like a long slog. We went back towards the SW ridge to pick up the camping gear we’d stashed 12h prior. Here, we had a soup stop – never underestimate how much a salty beverage can boost energy levels. Feeling rejuvenated we headed towards Quarterdeck – the clouds were coming in thick and fast at this stage, making the vis terrible, but we just followed our GPS points from the previous day, and were lucky enough that there were footprints of a prior party heading in that direction! From the quarterdeck there is a large shrund right at the top – its generally easiest to pass on the far skiers left, and also means you avoid the ice cliffs threatening the other side. There are a couple more crevasses on the way down to French ridge hut – try and get a look on the way in to establish if this way will go before committing to it as its a long long way to walk back round to Bevan Col. If you fly in you get a great view of it, or take a peek from the Matukituki. By the time we were walking down French ridge, the snow was pretty soft and we were aware not to linger. We saw a huge cornice collapse from the ice cliffs between the Breakaway and Mt French – the ensuing wave of debris including car sized chunks of ice that came thundering down went on for a good 45 seconds.

When the iconic red French ridge hut came into view, I was beyond relieved – soon I could stop moving!! It was 8.30pm when we reached the hut. We chatted to other hut stayers in good

spirits, and when they saw Joe licking the inside of his dehy packaging, kindly offered up more food to us.

The next day it was a cruisey walk out the Matukituki. With the sun beating down certain members of the party stripped down to undies – giving the day walkers a show! We went for a dip in the river en route and were back to the car within 5.5h. And as all good trips should end finished with a feed at the Big Fig.

The different descent options. The ramp can be fastest and lets you cut back towards the SW ridge earlier but can be dangerous in the wrong conditions. NW ridge has less objective hazard. Once you get to the big steep buttress, there easiest down climbing is on the north side, and you can usually make a rap down to the Kangaroo patch. The full NW ridge route takes you along the shipowner ridge on the skyline back towards Colin Todd Hut

The weekend warrior’s grand traverse! One of the most fun 2 day trips I’ve had in the NZ alps – 4 pitches of WI2 ice up to West peak onto a spectacular knife edge snow ridge high above the Whakatipu, followed by exposed rock scrambling along the 1km long ridge to East peak. Big mountain terrain just a few hours from Queenstown with no heinous moraines to cross like in the bigger ranges. If you’re fast you can get it done in a weekend and be back in Queenstown for a beer on Sunday night. Highly recommended!

Grade: 3+
Equipment: 3 season mountain boots. 1x 60m rope. 2x ice axes each. 2x snow stakes, 6x ice screws, 1x set of cams up to yellow, small set of nuts, long slings, tat to rappel. NB. Later in the year, you probably wouldn’t need ice screws.
Approach time: 9h to esquilant bivvy (6h on the way out!)
Climb time: ~10h biv to biv
Season: conditions will be highly dependent on time of year. We went late December and it was perfect, good ice up to W peak and clear rock on the summit ridge
Team: Joe, Maria 28/12/2022

Approach

Drive from Queenstown to Glenorchy and head up the Rees valley track. Theres a car park just under cone hill but you can get a fair bit further that that (you will be glad on the way out!). As far as Fords Fall is easy (saw a Hiace make it there), but further than that requires a proper 4×4 plus snorkel. Access all the way to base of kea basin track is possible with a 4×4. Make sure you ask the land owners permission before driving up there! The Rees track is marked with orange poles all the way up on the true left of the river. After the first couple km we found it super, super boggy (wading through shin deep slop in bare feet, not a lot of fun). The valley is much drier and higher on the true right (near where the 4 wheel drive track is) and we came back this way and found it much easier ground. Be aware its a working station so don’t cross anywhere you’re not meant to! Cross at 663, there is an obvious orange marker at the top of a grassy bank marking Kea Basin track. Follow this up to the rock biv. From here on up, it’s really easy to lose the track and find yourself bashing up steep, horrible tussock which is time consuming and tiring – have attached our gpx file and photos to help keep you on track. From the 1st rock biv trend right onto the ridge which takes you to 1445 above a tarn. You should be approaching point 1445 along the ridge from directly south. Go round the 2nd rock biv staying NE of it then curve back round SW until you gain the Birley glacier and Wright col. Total of 2,339m vertical and 16.8km, took us almost 9 hours (but only 5-6 on the way down).

The hut is very cool – tiny and perched in a totally epic spot! Small though – has a top and bottom layer with mats provided, 3 people on each level. Little cooking area. No water tank – had to go hunting for water, ended up having to go all the way back to wright col and up to the slabs on the S face of E peak to fill up. Multiple flat areas in the scree that have been cleared out to pitch tents on

Climb

We set off at 4am. From the biv, traverse around under East peak to the bottom of the couloir at the base of West peak. This is a roughly 40 degree slope which as you can see from the photo has some serious exposure under it. Even a small avalanche would be bad news and when firm, a trip would result in you sliding down off the cliff so be careful. The exact route across depends on the state of the snow – the route we took is marked in red below.

Once you get to the base of the couloir start heading straight up. 40 deg steepening and narrowing up to 45ish at the top. For the final 250m we had 4 pitches of good quality solid WI2 ice up to the top, protected with a combination of screws and rock pro on the couloir wall on the right.

We were surprised how good the ice was in there at this time of year, but the couloir is so deep it obviously never gets the sun. That being said, the walls and the top most definitely do get the sun and once it started getting warm the gully turns into a shooting gallery and was filled with old rockfall so aim to be out of the couloir by then.

Also bear in mind if you decide to bail and come back down this way, you’re going to have to wait until it gets cold again and freezes up before you descend. We left the hut at 4am and were at the top of the couloir by 9:15, which was perfect. From the top of the couloir turn left and scramble up the rocky ridge to West peak and soak up the epicness of the views.

Popping out the couloir onto the West peak

We wandered SW from here to point 2664 (partly because it looked cool but mainly because we got confused and thought that was the way to East peak… Which sounds pretty dumb but is not as obvious as you might think). Cruise along the snow ridge from West peak until you get to a col where you need to descend around 100m to the rocky part of the ridge. This is slightly E facing and so it catches the sun – was bulletproof first thing but had slightly softened so was a nice easy down climb for us but has some serious exposure so be careful – this spot is also very prone to avalanche. Some good bollards to rap if the conditions are more difficult.

Maria contemplating the ridge along towards East pk

Now onto rock for the next km. Generally sound rock (but some very loose, very big blocks) around 3 large gendarmes. Really fun section of the route – easy scrambling which we simulclimbed with a running belay, but needed a couple of raps to descend several sections, especially from the first 2 gendarmes. From the 3rd gendarme, it’s a cruise to the final snow slope up to East peak. Soak up the views from East peak before descending the south face.

Descent

The descent can be tricky from a route finding perspective if you haven’t gone up that way. It pays to take a good look at the face from the hut and take some pics before you set off to avoid getting bluffed out. There’s a big gully in the middle of the face that you come down with bluffs on both sides. From the summit, stick to the ridge to the east of the summit and follow this down heading NE for around 100m before turning to head north down the face. Keep some spare tat for if you go wrong and need to make an extra rap here.

We had a dirty soup/noodle stop at the biv before bracing ourselves for the walk out. By the time we got down to Kea basin, our boots were not our friends so we hiked the rest of the way out barefoot!

To do the traverse and the walk out to the car took us 17hours 30 min.

Our GPS track available below in GPX format to download!

earnslaw_gpx Download