Hiking – Peak Exposure

July 23, 2023January 11, 2024

Two Thumbs Traverse

With winter somewhat postponed due to the lack of snow, we decided to explore the Two Thumb range on foot. We chose a route involving as much time on a ridge as possible; it included some of the TA trail. I haven’t done the TA but surely this must be one of the most aesthetic segments – the area offers 360 views of the Southern Alps! I would recommend not banking on the log burners for warmth however – the first hut had firewood for days but a blocked chimney (?dead possum) and the second no firewood!

Time: 2-3 days from Christchurch
Season: we did this off-peak in winter and went in trail runners – carried lightweight crampons but didn’t feel the need to use. We saw no-one else; expect Camp Stream Hut to be full during the warmer months given it is on the TA although could avoid the crowds and do it as a 2 day trip and just stay at Royal Hut.
Team: Joe, Maria 16-18/07/23

Day 1 (start to B): park just before the gate on Roundhill Ski access road, bike 1h (3.7km) along 4WD track to where trail for Camp Stream Hut starts – marked by doc sign (A on map). Stashed the bikes just off the road. Hike 1.5h (5km) to Camp Stream Hut – 2-3 river crossings – fecking freezing.

Day 2 (B to C): 6.5h (14.22km) to Royal Hut. From Camp Stream Hut we gained the ridge directly N up to 1641. Bit of low lying tussock, nothing too heinous. We wondered about going along to Mt Hope but the ridge looked increasingly technical and we had no rope/gear, so we dropped East from point 2036, into the basin then pretty much beelined it to the hut. Royal Hut has an open hearth and no firewood so we retired into the sleeping bags very early! Star jumps and squats generated some heat also…

Day 3 (C back to start): 7.5h (23km) – gained SW ridge from the hut up to point 1891 and followed ridge along to Mt Musgrave (2251). At point 2133 (point D) we dropped down to the ski field – scree run ahoy – then walked down the road back to the car.

Camp Stream Hut – so much firewood but blocked chimney – disaster

April 25, 2023April 26, 2023

Philistine-Rolleston Traverse

An awesome day on the ridge between two stunning peaks in Arthur’s Pass. I can see why it is so popular! Easily do-able in a day trip from Christchurch. We did this in Autumn, but I think it would make for a great winter day out as well – perhaps even better given you would avoid travelling on loose rock. As Marije said “we’ve given it a good go trying to kill each other today”…

Grade: II, 3+ (grade probably comes from doing it in winter)
Time: 11h total (including breaks and a quick swim in the Otira River secondary to peer pressure)
Equipment: can be done in trail runners/approach shoes. We took a 60m rad line for 1x 25m rap. Tat and a few nuts – didn’t end up using. Lightweight crampons – didn’t use as there was no snow on the route.
Season: summer/early autumn; also a popular winter route but more objective risk.
Team: MJ, MK 22/04/2023

Topo map of our route; msg me for the gpx file

access

Park at the small carpark at the start of the Otira Valley Track. We stayed in MJ’s van the night before, allowing for a lie-in… 6am alarm.

Follow an easy marked trail along the river for about 2km – this took us 30 minutes. Cross the bridge and boost up around 1000m elevation up to Philistine. This took around 2h – there’s a dug in trail through the moraine then head up left through Warnock’s bluffs, passing a marker/pole (see below pic – ?karaoke mic).

climb

From Mt Philistine you get stunning panorama views of the national park and the southern alps. Here the ridge travel begins!

Sidling left, sidling right we navigated the gendarmes – it is pretty intuitive most of the time, but with the heavy clag that came in, we couldn’t see what the best way ahead was so made a couple of errors making for trickier climbing. Some of the rock was slick from the previous nights rainfall which also added to the spice. I found it a harder/more exposed than the Phipps-Temple traverse but still felt happy enough without a rope.

As you approach the high peak of Mt Rolleston there is an obvious gully straight ahead and then some orangey/red slabs to the left. Both ways looked okay but the latter more exposed so we chose the gully – it was loose so we went 1 by 1 but was fine otherwise.

Overall from Philistine to Rolleston the ridge took us around 4.5-5h.

From high peak walk 50m East to a rap station – lots of tat and a mallion. It was around 25m long and drops you into a gully. From here sidle left following the vague trail/cairns. This puts you on low peak (2212). There’s a good biv spot here but no water.

descent

Initially follow the ridge for 250m of descent then veer left onto the Otira slide. Variable quality scree but mostly good. We followed some cairns but there were multiple options to pick your way down.

At around 1950m we used a steep gully to descend but this was avoidable in retrospect if you stay left. We found a bit of snow to glacade down which was a brief but welcome respite from the scree!

From here just follow the cairns into the valley floor. Stay left of the river and you’ll meet the trail. Boost back out the way you came – optional swim in the river for bonus points!

Heading down Goldney Ridge towards the Otira slide

March 19, 2023April 23, 2023

Dasler Pinnacles, North Ridge

I had my doubts about this trip. Much uncertainty regarding the access, timing and weather. It turned out to be the perfect weekend away, and my first taster of a “multi-sport” adventure. With bikes to speed things up, we achieved our objective and made it door-to-door within 48h. Message for the gpx file as can’t upload to the website.

Grade: II, 1+
Time: 20-30min bike to Monument Hut (around 5km, depending on how far your car can take you along the 4WD track). 45 min bike to Red Hut (5.5km). 30 min bike to trail head of Dasler Pinnacles trail (4.5km). 7-8h from trail head to summit and back; time on ridge was around 2h.
Equipment: can be done in trail runners/approach shoes. We took a rope, helmets and tat only. No rack. We took lightweight crampons just in case as there had been an unseasonable dump of snow in the weeks prior but there was no snow on the route and minimal in the surrounds.
Season: Summer/early Autumn to ensure rock is dry. Best to go when dry since significant rainfall in the days prior will have increased the river level, making your crossings spicier.
Team: Maria, Shona, Younes 3-5/03/2023

Access

The Hopkins Valley is very popular with 4WD-ers and hunters alike, so there is a decent 4WD track along the valley floor. If you have a 4WD – or a high clearance vehicle you can drive to Monument Hut. If you’re happy fording then you could drive the whole way to the start of the Dasler Pinnacles trail. We parked 2km from the road end and biked around 5km along easy road to Monument Hut.

From Monument Hut, don’t follow the trail into the forest – it is possible to bike but the track makes you gain elevation unnecessarily. Instead cross the river immediately in front of the hut (1st of many crossings so don’t be precious about your feet). There are a few 4WD tracks – one that takes you up the river’s true right then cuts across to Red Hut; the other goes diagonally across towards Red Hut on the river’s true left. The track up the river’s true right was better formed and easier to ride.

Great in-situ chain for a steep section on the Dasler Pinnacles trail – was happy to yard on it.

From Red Hut (great place to stash any sleeping gear etc. that you won’t need for the rest of the day), we biked along an easy 4WD track, stashed the bikes and hiked up to Dasler Biv. Trail is well marked and easy to follow. Follow the trail to the left of the Biv; soon you’ll break out of the beech forest into scrub. Navigate the bluffs, aiming for the base of the N ridge. There is a decent camp spot with water at the point 1840; the views would be glorious and we wished we were staying the night up high. Scramble up the scree, hugging the rock face, up to the base of the N ridge. We stashed some more things under rocks to make our climb even more light & fast.

climb

Fun scramble to the summit; none of it felt committing – if ever there is a steeper section then there are options to sidle around. The rock (?Greywacke) was pretty decent, peaking interest in the other routes on the NW face. Down climb the same way. 2-3h return.

We boosted down, quick cuppa at the Biv, then some respite for the feet as we biked into Red Hut for the night. We just missed the heavy rain, and woke up to snowy mountain tops the next morning. Drove home in time for dinner – a very achievable weekend trip from Christchurch!

The ridgeline! Red line denotes where we went up the scree to the start of the scramble.

From Monument Hut, don’t take the trail into the forest, cross the river

January 22, 2023March 23, 2023

Mt Oates, West Ridge via Lake Mavis

I do love an open body of water. And this one is a goody. A beautiful camping (and skinny dipping) location – albeit not as remote as you might hope as we had the company of 5 other tents, a raft and a glider! Mt Oates also provides an opportunity for some spicy scrambling. The walk up the Mingha takes you along the running segment of the coast to coast race so we bumped into lots of people training for it – so much lycra!

Grade: II, 2
Time: 5h to Lake Mavis (4h to Goat’s Pass then 1h to the lake); 1.5h to low peak of Mt Oates, 3.5h along the N ridge / back to the lake.
Equipment: can be done in trail runners/approach shoes. We didn’t take a rope/rack, only helmets. Easy scrambling to low peak but between low and high peak we wanted a rope; instead we decided to go along the N ridge which was mostly fine.
Season: Lake Mavis would be snow-free in spring/summer; you would want to do Mt Oates in summer to ensure the rock is dry
Team: Laudi, Abbey, Maria 14-15/01/23

Access

Park at Greyney’s Shelter. We stayed at Kennedy Lodge the night before allowing for a bit more of a lie-in! From the Doc sign at the N side of the carpark cross the road and go through a tunnel which puts you on a doc trail. Follow the orange markers. The Waimakariri river level varies significantly, so worth checking this before going as you need to make a few river crossings. It’s just over 11km to the point where you want to take a right up towards Lake Mavis. Don’t be tempted to turn off early – from the stream draining from Lake Mavis continue another 500m on the track. The turn off is marked with cairns. Head up the sparse scrub/scree, following the cairns up to Lake Mavis.

climb

Cross the outlet of the lake then head up the scree gully just left of the buttress that extends the lowest on the scree. Don your helmets! The climbing is easy but the rock is a little crumbly. It was great fun scrambling up to low peak but on traversing the summit to have a look over to high peak, we weren’t too inspired. There is a drop of around 20m then quite a steep climb, which looked pretty gross to down climb.

From Lake Mavis looking up to Mt Oates, low peak. Our route along the West ridge.

Instead, we opted to go along the N ridge towards point 1978. There are multiple opportunities to drop down from the ridge onto scree, but we were enjoying the scrambling so continued so far as we felt comfortable then dipped down. Towards the end we were increasingly sketched out by the level of choss so were relieved to be on safer ground – “oh blessed scree”. From here it was a quick/easy descent down to camp. Even found a 50m stretch of snow to glacade down! The next day we went out the same way due to time (and food constraints) – but another option would be to go over the ridge N of Oates, descend to Taruahuna Pass then to Edwards Hut and out (approx 9h). Great weekend trip, completed with ice-cream!

Looking over to Mt Oates high peak – no thanks

April 7, 2022January 16, 2023

Mt Wakefield, Guideless Buttress

I first heard about this route from my guide on a mountaineering course; he had recommended it as a classic ‘must-do’ for the region.
That was 2 years ago, but I finally got round to it in March 2022. A really great day trip from Cook village. Easy access, long route (800m), non committal. And the rock quality was pretty good! She says, surprised.

Very solo-able. Some parties may want to take a rope but expect a long day if that is the case; it is an 800m route! As a frame of reference, it was more exposed than the Phipps Temple Traverse, but similar in parts to the access to Moir’s mate.

Grade: III 3, crux 8
Equipment: we took a 30m rope and a minimal rack just in case
Approach: 2h up the Hooker Valley track from White Horse Hill Campground
Climb time: 4h to top ridge then further 1.5h scrambling up to Mt Wakefield
Season: best in summer/early autumn when dry rock is guaranteed
Team: Jack, Maria 5/3/22

approach

Woke up at the very reasonable time of 7 after driving down from Christchurch the night before to stay at the NZAC’s Unwin Lodge – email ahead to book a spot and bring cash for fees.

Easy walk along the marked Hooker Valley track. Cross all 3 suspension bridges. Just nearing the end of the track, turn off the path right towards the scree field. There are two large scree fields, it is the one closest to the Hooker lake. Fatmap has a really handy route overlay.

From here scramble up to looker’s right of the scree field. The direct start (18/19) is on the left sticking to the arete. We started further right. Initially a bit vegetated (I was in head high bush briefly), but the route comes into its own the higher up you go. Soon you’re scrambling over decent rock with stunning views of Aoraki the whole way up. Route finding was pretty straight forward; generally we stuck pretty close to the arete.

Guideless route; direct start (18/19) follows the arete just left of our line

The route pops you out at around 1960m on to a very Mars-esque plateau. Walk left and scramble up to Mt Wakefield. Soak in the 360 panorama before taking care going down -there was more loose rock on this section than on the actual route.

We initially thought we’d walk south along the ridge until we met the Tasman Valley Road, and had dropped a car off there in the morning, but the ridge looked quite involved (see photo on left) and it was already mid afternoon so we dropped down into the scree field west of 1566m. Scree quality was average but this saved us a good few hours. At the bottom head right and within a km you’ll hit the Hooker Valley Track again.

Type 1 fun all the way. Would climb again, next time via the direct start or via the other Wakefield gullies!

March 29, 2022April 11, 2022

Phipps Temple Traverse

Canterbury’s answer to the Remarkables Grand Traverse they say! Located on the Main Divide of the Southern Alps, this traverse is spicier than a hike, but not as committing as a full climb. A great day tickling the spine of the South Island.

Grade: II, 2+
Time: 5h 40mins (moving time 5h)
Equipment: can be done in trail runners/approach shoes (although I wore boots due to my gammy ankle). We didn’t take a rope/rack, helmets only. If you’re used to exposure and can confidently climb grades 15+ you should be ok (nothing harder than a grade 8). Some parties have used a running belay along the ridge.
Season: we didn’t come across any snow on the route doing this in late summer, just a small patch on the S face of Phipps. In the shoulder seasons would take crampons/ice axe. Can be done as a winter route also.
Team: Maria, Andy, Rich, David 26/03/22

access

Park at temple basin ski field carpark and head up the 4WD track that turns into a well maintained walking track to the lodges. From the red building (CMC’s Lockwood shelter) at around 1380m cut across the basin NE. There is a faint trail. We aimed for a spot in the basin that would put you underneath the lowest col visible on the west ridge of Phipps (see route below). Many variations to this route possible.

climb

From the basin there some slabs to scramble up and over. Then stick to the margin of the scree along one of the buttresses heading diagonally right. This leads you to a thin narrow gully 15m shy of the ridge – rock was a bit loose here so watch for rockfall, was better slightly to the left of the gully staying high on the buttress. We were on the ridge within 2h.

Our route up to Phipps, seen from Mt Temple

Our route up to Phipps, as seen from Temple Basin

The ridge travel definitely takes a little time and focus as the rock quality is average. There are a few gendarmes forcing you to dip down low from the ridge, usually to the left but not very often and 95% of the time the easiest route was staying on top of the ridge.

From Phipps peak (1965) its a gentle declining ridge to Temple (1913). It looks pretty hectic when you initially look at it but travelling on it was pretty fast and we got across in 40 minutes.

descent

Just beyond the cairn on Mt Temple there is a steep gully – initially the ground is pretty compact and slippy but further down turns into 10/10 quality shingle/scree! We were down to Page shelter within 15 minutes. From there you can see a trail cut out heading down to Lockwood shelter. From there retrace your steps back to the car.

We took 5h 40 with a couple of leisurely stops, but speedier parties have done it in 4!

March 27, 2022July 23, 2023

Mt Titiroa

Memories of this trip – being oh-so-cold. Beautiful hike, felt like we were on the moon due to Titiroa’s distinctive white granite.
Highs: the forecast was stellar and we were treated to an ocean of stars in the evening (forget Tekapo!)
Lows: airbed popped and I spent the night in the foetal position
Overall: a must do in Southland

Time: 10h from jetty to biv; 6.5h biv to car (17km)
Season: you want a good forecast as it’s pretty exposed at the top for bivvying; also mid-late winter you would have to take crampons
Team: Joe, Maria 19/06/21

Titiroa is part of the Hunter Mountain range on Lake Manapouri. You can access it as an out and back, or do what we did as a loop track.

We left one car just up to road from Borland lodge. Then we drove round to Manapouri and stayed at Possum Lodge the night before – a stone’s throw away from the jetty where you start. You need to cross Waiau river to get onto the walking track. There are water taxis in the summer season but it was June and besides, it is only about 50m wide – easily doable with a packraft! Harder when there’s only one between two and heavy packs per person… Joe took one for the team and did the trip once with the bags, and the second time with me. Obviously you can use any other river worthy vessel too, as long as you’re happy to stash it somewhere discretely or just risk losing it. At the end of the trip you’ll have to retrieve whatever you left of course requiring a river swim to finish the hike! Other option is to hike with the packraft but we opted just to swim back over at the end. Just watch for passing boats… We were on the water by 0700.

Easy flat Doc track through beech forest. Stick to the trail following the lakeside as the Circle track is a loop track that takes you inland. Around 6km in is the Hope Arm hut. Take a left here heading up Snow White clearing track which takes you to Garnock burn. Ice cold river crossings had me in tears!

Head directly up through the bushline and stick to the ridge of Titiroa. It’s a good grunt going up to 1715m, but in total we clocked just shy of 2000m elevation in total. From the summit, soak in the panoramic views of the Fiordland surrounds! We summited just after 5pm. Smattering of snow around, lots of very oddly shaped boulders. The sun was just starting to set as we descended to find a biv spot for the night. Always love golden hour!

After a sleepless night thanks to a popped airbed / no repair kit, we set off around 8am. Boosted down to North Borland hut, and along North branch Borland river track. OJ and carrots never tasted so good. Drove back round to Pearl Harbour jetty for a brisk swim (thanks Joe!).