Canterbury’s answer to the Remarkables Grand Traverse they say! Located on the Main Divide of the Southern Alps, this traverse is spicier than a hike, but not as committing as a full climb. A great day tickling the spine of the South Island.
- Grade: II, 2+
- Time: 5h 40mins (moving time 5h)
- Equipment: can be done in trail runners/approach shoes (although I wore boots due to my gammy ankle). We didn’t take a rope/rack, helmets only. If you’re used to exposure and can confidently climb grades 15+ you should be ok (nothing harder than a grade 8). Some parties have used a running belay along the ridge.
- Season: we didn’t come across any snow on the route doing this in late summer, just a small patch on the S face of Phipps. In the shoulder seasons would take crampons/ice axe. Can be done as a winter route also.
- Team: Maria, Andy, Rich, David 26/03/22
access
Park at temple basin ski field carpark and head up the 4WD track that turns into a well maintained walking track to the lodges. From the red building (CMC’s Lockwood shelter) at around 1380m cut across the basin NE. There is a faint trail. We aimed for a spot in the basin that would put you underneath the lowest col visible on the west ridge of Phipps (see route below). Many variations to this route possible.
climb
From the basin there some slabs to scramble up and over. Then stick to the margin of the scree along one of the buttresses heading diagonally right. This leads you to a thin narrow gully 15m shy of the ridge – rock was a bit loose here so watch for rockfall, was better slightly to the left of the gully staying high on the buttress. We were on the ridge within 2h.
The ridge travel definitely takes a little time and focus as the rock quality is average. There are a few gendarmes forcing you to dip down low from the ridge, usually to the left but not very often and 95% of the time the easiest route was staying on top of the ridge.
From Phipps peak (1965) its a gentle declining ridge to Temple (1913). It looks pretty hectic when you initially look at it but travelling on it was pretty fast and we got across in 40 minutes.
descent
Just beyond the cairn on Mt Temple there is a steep gully – initially the ground is pretty compact and slippy but further down turns into 10/10 quality shingle/scree! We were down to Page shelter within 15 minutes. From there you can see a trail cut out heading down to Lockwood shelter. From there retrace your steps back to the car.
We took 5h 40 with a couple of leisurely stops, but speedier parties have done it in 4!
Peak Exposure 
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